Modern Nonna’s Rome Food Guide: Where Romans Really Eat

Before coming to Rome, I did what any food-obsessed traveler would do: I spent weeks researching the best places to eat in the Eternal City, read numerous articles, spoke with locals, and rewatched Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy. I wasn’t going to fly across the ocean only to spend my trip queued at every viral tourist trap.

Woman wearing a straw hat, sunglasses, and a white embroidered blouse sits outdoors on a street lined with trees and parked cars, looking off to the side under a partly cloudy sky.
The Colosseum in Rome stands under a clear blue sky, surrounded by crowds of tourists and nearby historic ruins, with distant mountains visible in the background.
img 88272 3
A person wearing sunglasses and a straw hat is reflected in a round mirror attached to a pink scooter. They are taking a photo. In the background, there’s a white car parked on a sunny street with trees and buildings.

This guide isn’t a comprehensive directory of every restaurant in Rome. It’s an honest recap of the places my dad and I loved, the dishes I would return for without hesitation, a few spots I’d skip, and one unforgettable experience that made the trip feel cinematic.

My Rome Hit List

If your time is limited, prioritize these top five must-try experiences and dishes.

🍝 Best carbonara: Pommidoro dal 1890 (San Lorenzo)
💎 Best hidden gem: La Vecchia Locanda (near the Pantheon)
🍧 Best gelato: Giolitti (near the Pantheon)
🍘 Best snack: Cacio e pepe supplì at Supplì Roma (Trastevere)
🧀 Best meat and cheese board: Pizza in Trevi or Le Tamerici (near Trevi)

Where to Eat by Area

A hand holds a cup of gelato with a large swirl of whipped cream on top; blurred pedestrians and yellow buildings are visible in the background, suggesting a lively street scene in Rome.
A close-up of a plate of spaghetti being twirled around a fork. The pasta is lightly coated in a creamy sauce with grated cheese sprinkled around the edge of a white plate. Another plate of pasta is visible in the background.
Close-up of a plate of pasta with creamy white sauce and truffle slices on a red plate. In the background, another plate of pasta with red sauce and a partially visible person sitting at a wooden table.
A wooden platter with assorted cured meats, cheese, and a ball of fresh mozzarella is on a table in a restaurant. Diners are seated in the background, and part of a menu is visible in the foreground.
A hand holds a single golden-brown, breaded and fried ball, resting on a white napkin with printed text. The background is blurred, showing cobblestones and part of a dark object.

Near the Pantheon

Giolitti

Order: Pistachio gelato

Giolitti, just steps from the Pantheon, was our favorite gelateria on the trip. The pistachio was creamy, nutty, and exactly what I wanted from authentic Italian gelato. If you see more commercial chains, treat them like the coffee chains of gelato: convenient but not always the best.

5 Signs Your Gelato Is the Real Deal

1. Natural, muted colors and a soft, creamy texture. Pistachio should be an olive green, not neon.

2. Gelato sits level with the pan or is only slightly rounded—never piled high.

3. Covered metal containers (pozzetti) indicate proper storage and temperature control.

4. Seasonal flavors and a short ingredient list suggest freshness.

5. Nut and fruit flavors should taste like the real ingredients, not artificial additives.

Ginger

Order: Eggs, omelettes, freshly squeezed juices

Ginger is a reliable breakfast choice near the Pantheon if you want something fresh and familiar. It overlooks a lovely square and makes a pleasant start to a day of sightseeing and pasta tasting.

La Vecchia Locanda

Order: Tonnarelli with truffle, Amatriciana

La Vecchia Locanda feels rustic and warm, like stepping into a local nonna’s kitchen. The pasta is homemade and perfectly al dente. The tonnarelli truffle pasta was outstanding, and the Amatriciana was my dad’s favorite of the trip. Tucked in a quiet corner near the Pantheon, it never felt like a tourist trap—just a lovely, authentic meal.

Close-up of a plate of pasta with creamy white sauce and truffle slices on a red plate. In the background, another plate of pasta with red sauce and a partially visible person sitting at a wooden table.

Trevi / Spanish Steps

Pizza in Trevi

Order: Antipasto board with fresh ricotta, mortadella, burrata, cheeses, and cured meats

The meat and cheese board here is incredible—fresh ricotta, creamy burrata, and a generous selection of meats and cheeses. The pizza features a 24-hour sourdough crust. I preferred the location on Via della Mercede 32, conveniently between the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps.

Street view of "Pizza in Trevi" restaurant with an arched entrance, open doors, visible dining tables, chandeliers, and people sitting inside. A menu stand and a plant display are at the entrance.

Le Tamerici

Order: Salami and cheese platter, gnocchetti, and pinsa

Le Tamerici was a standout. The salami and cheese platter was fresh and perfectly paired with a glass of wine. The gnocchetti, served in a light, creamy sauce, were unforgettable. Don’t miss the pinsa with gorgonzola, pear, and honey—a brilliant balance of sweet and savory. My only caveat: the Alla Gricia was very salty, so skip it if you’re sensitive to salt.

A close-up of a bowl of gnocchi in a creamy yellow sauce, garnished with herbs and an edible red flower, served on a green and white checkered tablecloth.

Campo de’ Fiori

Forno

A man with a backpack enters Forno Campo de’ Fiori, a bakery with a white sign and wooden door, as people stand inside near the counter.
A bakery with glass display cases filled with various pastries and breads. A worker wearing a white cap stands behind the counter. Yellow price tags are visible, and shelves with more baked goods and vintage photos are on the wall.

Order: Potato focaccia and a mortadella sandwich with provolone, toasted

Forno Campo de’ Fiori is a historic bakery with two distinct counters. Order the potato focaccia from the right-hand door—it’s light, crisp, and perfectly seasoned. Then head to the other counter for a mortadella and provolone sandwich and ask for it toasted. Locals frequent this spot, and the no-seating setup makes it ideal for grabbing a sandwich to enjoy at a nearby piazza fountain.

Roscioli Salumeria

Order: Fresh ricotta, tiramisu, homemade mortadella, spinach ravioli

Roscioli is a culinary institution for a reason. Known for outstanding cured meats, cheeses, and a vast wine selection, it’s a must-visit. We enjoyed ricotta, smooth mortadella, spinach ravioli, and a memorable tiramisu. Note: the pasta here was a touch undercooked for my preference, so request a longer cook time if you like a softer texture.

Trastevere

Supplì Roma

Order: Cacio e pepe supplì

Supplì Roma served my favorite bite in Trastevere: a crisp, cheesy, peppery cacio e pepe supplì. It’s the ideal street snack while wandering the neighborhood’s cobblestone lanes.

A hand holds a half-eaten, golden-brown fried rice ball with a creamy rice filling, wrapped in a white napkin. The rice ball is resting on a branded paper with red and black text.

Trattoria Da Teo

Order: Pasta; reservation recommended

Da Teo is a reliable Trastevere option with solid pasta dishes. It’s popular, so book ahead to avoid waiting in a busy neighborhood.

IVO

Order: Thin-crust pizza

A street view of a building in Rome with a sign reading "IVO A TRASTEVERE" above an arched entrance, illuminated by wall lanterns, and an adjacent "PIZZERIA" sign visible to the left.

IVO offers a casual, local atmosphere and thin-crust pizza—perfect for an easy evening when you don’t want a formal reservation or a long meal.

Worth the Taxi Ride

Pommidoro dal 1890 (San Lorenzo)

A framed photo of four smiling adults standing close together indoors, with their arms around each other, displayed on a table next to a decorative vase and in front of background newspaper clippings.

Order: The legendary carbonara

Pommidoro dal 1890 serves the best carbonara I’ve ever had. It’s a family-run trattoria featured on national television and located about 20 minutes from the city center, so a taxi and a reservation are necessary. Go solely for the carbonara—you won’t regret it.

A close-up of a plate of spaghetti being twirled around a fork. The pasta is lightly coated in a creamy sauce with grated cheese sprinkled around the edge of a white plate. Another plate of pasta is visible in the background.

My honest take: this is worth the taxi, the reservation, and the hype. If you can’t make the trip, attempt the recipe at home for a taste of the experience.

Honest Skips I Wouldn’t Rush Back To

Tonnarello – Trastevere

I tried this popular spot to see what the fuss was about. For me, it was underwhelming and too salty, so it didn’t make the favorites list.

Otaleg – Trastevere

Some people swear by Otaleg, but our visit was underwhelming. Gelato preferences vary widely, so results may differ by flavor choice.

Da Enzo – Trastevere

Da Enzo is widely talked about and the food is decent, but the long lines and crowded atmosphere made it less enjoyable for us. If you value a calmer meal, consider alternatives.

The Pink Fiat Tour That Made Our Trip

One highlight was a private tour in a vintage pink Fiat 500 with a small company that runs customizable drives around the city. It felt personal, relaxed, and magical—far different from a long walking tour, especially in summer heat.

Our guide and driver knew local history and the best photo stops. We visited the Colosseum, Villa Borghese, the Orange Garden, Gianicolo Hill, and several scenic viewpoints. The tour is perfect for photos and for travelers who prefer not to walk all day. Expect to draw attention—the car is a showstopper—but embrace the moment.

img 88272 19

Travel Tips

Make reservations well in advance. Popular restaurants fill up quickly, especially in summer.

Don’t overpack your schedule—leave time to wander, sit in a piazza, and enjoy a gelato by the fountain after dark.

Wear comfortable shoes; cobblestones can be unforgiving.

img 88272 20
A woman wearing sunglasses, a white blouse, and striped pants takes a selfie while walking down a city street. She is smiling and carrying a brown shoulder bag. Shops and people are visible in the background.
A woman wearing a white blouse, green shorts, sandals, a hat, and sunglasses stands smiling in front of a graffiti-covered wall on a sunny day.
img 88272 23

If you visit in summer, plan around the heat: walk early or late, take breaks, and consider an afternoon rest before dinner.

Try not to judge Rome only by viral spots. Some of the warmest memories come from quiet moments: a small neighborhood restaurant, a toasted sandwich from a bakery, a street musician, a glass of wine, and laughing with someone you love in a sunlit piazza.

Travel Must-Haves

A few items made our days in Rome more comfortable: versatile sandals for long walks, a pair of sneakers for more formal outings, a small anti-theft crossbody, and a simple makeup shield for quick changes. These basics helped keep packing light and sightseeing easy.

If you want to travel light, choose shoes you can walk in all day and a secure bag for crowded areas. Small practical items make a big difference when you’re exploring a busy city.

Are You Packed Yet?

Rome was unforgettable. Beyond the exceptional food and beautiful streets, the moments I’ll cherish most are the small ones shared with my dad—laughing, dancing, and discovering new flavors together. If you’re heading to Rome this summer, I hope this guide helps you eat well, avoid disappointments, and leave space for the memories that matter most.